Comments on: Aquaponics Grow Bed Depth

By: slywoman

slywoman — Thu, 09 Dec 2010 13:35:19 +0000

Hi Bill. First, let me say that plumbing is not my forte, and I’m not sure what “weep hole drains” are except for what I can surmise based on the name. Most everyone I know in aquaponics who has gone away from using a timer and into auto-siphons is using a bell siphon. Is that because they are more widely discussed, or because they are the most reliable? …I honestly don’t know.

By: Bill S.

Bill S. — Thu, 09 Dec 2010 02:35:32 +0000

Excellent info. I’m new to aquaponics and have yet to build my first system, although getting excited as I design and collect the basic materials. I’ve read several blogs and I believe a flood and drain system is best for my project. I have a question however, regarding which drain system to use; a bell siphon, a loop siphon, or a weep hole system. Because of cost and availability, I’m designing a system with two rows of six smaller beds (16.5″ x 24″ x 12″ deep. I’m also using a single 720 GPH pump. Not sure if a timer with weep hole drains is any more reliable than a continuous flow with a bell siphon or loop siphon. Any suggestions?

By: Sorry Sylvia!

Sorry Sylvia! — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 08:17:14 +0000

[...] endorsement of some of the grow bed depth “guidelines” that attend the Speraneo model prompted me to take a fairly narrow line on [...]

By: slywoman

slywoman — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 20:59:42 +0000

Thanks Paul. The answer to all three of your questions is “it depends on what you are growing”. Think about the outdoor conditions where the plants you want to grow are at their peak. For example, if you are growing tomatoes, which peaks in the mid – end of summer you are going to want warmer temps (although they like a cooler night), long days (about 16 hours of lights) and will need a light that can penetrate through a deep canopy (so probably more of an HID style light). Lettuce, on the other hand, does best in the spring and fall when the days are shorter and cooler, and they have a short canopy so a T5 compact florescent would work. I’ll write a post on indoor lighting soon to explain further – it is getting to be that time of year!

By: Paul

Paul — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 20:52:19 +0000

You Guys are awesome. I am sold. I am building a web page for this stuff linked off my page. I cant wait to start setting up a system. I have my hands full for a bit but I am learning tons. I will set up a small system in the garage and need recommendations on grow lights. I use a indoor wood boiler that is located in the Garage what is a good temp in winter for veggies and how much light should I give (hour wise).

By: lee

lee — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 11:26:55 +0000

You will find that your worm colony when it gets going in your system will only grow as big as your system allows.

By: slywoman

slywoman — Sun, 08 Aug 2010 13:26:05 +0000

Hi Bob! Yes, you introduce the worms to the system. Although I have heard some say "if you build it they will come", and I'm sure they are right, that strategy will take so long and the benefits of having worms in your system are so great that I recommend just going ahead and purchase them. I haven't dialed into any real ratios about lb of worms / sq ft of grow bed but my experience says that somewhere in the 1 lb to every 20ish square ft of grow bed would work well. We sell them on our website shipped to you by a very reputable worm farmer.

By: Bob Segraves

Bob Segraves — Sat, 07 Aug 2010 23:24:17 +0000

Okay, as a prospecive media based grower I suspect at some point I would want my grow bes to have a robust zone 3. How do the worms get there? Do I introduce the worms at some point?

By: garden design sydney

garden design sydney — Wed, 04 Aug 2010 06:27:49 +0000

I like your technology .you have tell it wonderful way .it is great.

By: slywoman

slywoman — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 01:31:53 +0000

Hi Bob. Great question. This is actually one of the key differences between a media based and a raft based (or Deep Water Culture) system. Raft systems are what many of the commercial growers are using, and is the technology developed by the University of the Virgin Islands. Because the plant roots are suspended directly into the water you need to remove the solids so they don't coat the roots and prevent oxygen from reaching them. In my post from last week I talked about why raft systems are great for commercial operations, but why they have real limitations for home gardeners so I won't repeat it here. Suffice to say that time spent cleaning solids filters, the disruption of the closed eco-system by the removal of solids, and the lower nutrient levels of a system with the solids removed are among those limitations. Travis, Murray, Joel, and I are all (primarily) media based gardeners.